Much can be said about the big time saving high-dollar devices we have to extricate glass from vehicles. Names like Express, Extractor and Freedom come to mind. No doubt without their invention, many of us would have lost our knuckles, fingertips and occupational longevity along with our patience to stay in the trade by now. However, like in life, the “little folks” of tooldom need a little appreciation, respect and “props” for their existence. Many of the tools and devices we use are fairly specific to our industry. Below are my Fab Five nominees for a little appreciation.
Cold Knives- This is the most basic tool in our inventory and in my case, the most used. I would rather try to navigate my cable knife around a glass perimeter than any other tool out there. I just feel I have far more control and thereby can limit most paint damage when and wherever I can. I carry four or them, each with varying length of blades. The two great improvements to this most elemental utensil are the quick change and the Ultra-Wiz type blades. When the quick release style of knife was introduced, I didn’t care that much for it. The time saving was nice but I felt it lacked feel. However with the tight fits we are seeing more of, the old style of the tool has a nut that secures the cable to the blade which had an ugly way of scratching paint if one didn’t watch out. The place I had most trouble with was pulling along the tight posts of current Nissan trucks or SUVs. I found with the quick-release model I could extend the blade a bit longer and easily get clearance.
The new style of cold knife blades is a godsend. I hated to waste time grinding down a new blade in order for it to be sharp or thin enough not to require the need to inject steroids in myself. Anybody who had a “fattie” while trying to remove an old 1981 Escort that Ford liked to install with a minimum thickness of urethane would appreciate the blade’s evolution. I do buy only the paint-protection style these days, but I really attempt not try to test those properties.
Wire- This is an area that I thought and in fact prayed that I had seen the last of. Gosh, I hated wiring glass out. Many of us “old fogies” had started in this trade by using piano wire to remove windshields or backlites. When someone tried to teach me the use of a garrote, I informed the instructor that the device was hardly new to me since I was pulling glass when I was 14. Weightlifting skills were appreciated since wiring out any glass seemed to require the pectoral muscles of a Mr. America. With the advent of the cold knife and various other power glass removal tools, I foolishly thought I had gratefully seen the passing of an era. Obviously I had not slept at a Holiday Inn when I had that presumption.
Today I am using wire more than ever. Body shops required more glass removals and with today’s raw edge glass designs, I have found using wire for removal has minimized collateral damage to surrounding painted areas technology has marched on as well. I started using Tightwire at least ten years ago and found it to be a major improvement as it was far more flexible, cut faster and required less exertion than the old piano wire. Yet, this year I can truthfully say, I have found something that works even better in many applications—Squirewire. My friend Larry Carlson from Austin Auto Glass has touted the properties of this product to me for at least a year. He got so fed up with my procrastination to buy it; he included a roll of the stuff as part payment of a semi- transcontinental bet that he lost to me. I am extremely grateful for his stubbornness along with his ability to lose to me in fantasy baseball. To those who have a tough time removing Jeep Wrangler DW 1668s, try Squirewire. I cut any part of the windshield out that I can with a cold knife. Wrap Squire around the remaining outside perimeter and then pull from the inside. If one can lock one end in somehow and just pull the other, it cuts out clean and rather quickly. The inside pull method works well on the newer Volkswagen shields along with many encapsulated back and sidelites that have little outside clearance if one is forsaking power tools for the sake of paint. It’s not perfect; Squirewire doesn’t saw well nor does it like setting pins. Also working with it without thick gloves and safety glasses is like searching for gas leaks with a match. However, it makes some cutouts very easy and it has become an integral part of my tool inventory.
I’m aware of a removal tool called the GlassBot that incorporates wire and spares the brute strength but I have never seen it in operation. I’ve heard rumors that some of the large-glass installation firms are looking into mandating use of the “Bot” to help minimize customer paint damage as glass designs are evolving more toward the tight fitting raw edge of the late-model Jettas and Eos. It’s a little ironic to see old ways return as new solutions.
Another “can’t do without” tool for me is my “Super Scraper.” This urethane removal implement is a part of every install and all ten fingers of mine thank me daily for its use as well as the pinchwelds to which it is applied. If any of you ever had a razor blade fold over while scraping glass or metal as I have, you certainly will appreciate its invention. I carry two of these scrapers so that I don’t waste the time and effort of changing blade widths. I have found that this tool does the least amount of damage to a car body when removing urethane, which of course minimizes the chance for corrosion. It doesn’t hurt that at least for me sure speeds up the removal process and saves my fingers for golf and riffs on “Guitar Hero.” Body shop techs have had me order scrapers for them since they appear to be unique to our industry. The blades come in three widths and I’ve found I almost never use the smallest one. My only two complaints on the tools are that some blades are very easy to snap and the weakest part of the tool is the ring that secures the blade to the tool. It wears easy and loses tension rendering the tool unusable. I carry back-up replacement parts for that reason.
Remember how many mechanics and body men used to drool over our plastic bones? I knew I could win friends and influence people if I handed out installation sticks when I worked at an account. That tool has evolved into a set of hard and durable tools that have been marketed in our industry as “Prybabies.” Every tool truck has a set of these utensils designed to push, dig, separate and pry parts and articles that easily damage, scratch or break. I believe that I use at least one component of the set on every job that I do. I use them for everything from removing roof rails and door trims to leveling mouldings after installation.
Last but not least, for those mobiles where light is a precious commodity, pick up an LED flashlight. I’ve got a few sizes and use them inside door panels and other areas that need illumination. They pack a big punch in small packages. There are rechargeable models made but they are pricey. They retail for around $135, which I thought was a ridiculous amount to spend on a flashlight. The battery-operated model I bought was far cheaper, yet, when I went to replace the 3-volt replacements, I found that its cost was almost $15 a pair. Choose wisely, my children.
The one tool I would like to see less of is the long-handled utility knife that some of our budget-minded installers use as the primary tool for below-dash urethane detachment. I realize that the cost of having a cordless or pneumatic removal device is fairly high, but nothing speaks “hack” more to me than watching some guy fold the top of a windshield down while spraying glass fragments indiscriminately as he slices away at the attached uncut urethane. The tool indeed has its uses, but not as a removal tool of first choice.
Tools make the professional and the proficient professional uses the right tool for the job. I’m sure all of you out there keep your eyes open and your ears perked for anything that can make your installation life easier, faster and safer. I’m just wondering what Mr. C is going to send me this year when he loses again in baseball.
